Mt Emei and Giant Buddha Leshan

17 02 2018

Fans or martial arts novels written by Jin Yong will be familiar with the “Emei Sect”. I am one of them and have always fantasize on going up Mt Emei, a beautiful and mysterious mountain located in Sichuan province in China.

Even if you are not a Jin Yong novel fan, Emeishan is also pretty popular destination for nature lovers with its verdant trees, splendid waterfalls, cute but super mischievous monkeys, mysterious sea of cloud and many other beautiful sights. The Golden Summit standing at more than 3000 meters above sea level gives one a magnificent view of the vast plain in the east and the snowy mountains in the west and is famous for the four sights of Emei: the sea of clouds, beautiful sunrise, the holy Buddha rays and the saint lamps.

For Buddhist, this is one of the “Four Sacred Mountains” together with Mt Putuo (which is the holy mountain of Avalokitesvara or Guangyin in Chinese), Mt Jiuhua (which is the holy mountain of Ksitigarbha also known in Chinese as Dizang), and Mt Wutai (which is the holy mountain of Manjusri or in Chinese Wenshu). Throughout the mountain, devotees are seen bribing joss sticks in prayer for good luck, with some devoted pilgrims prostrating with every 3 steps they took up to the Golden Summit. It is not surprising that Mt. Emei was enlisted as one of UNESCO world natural and cultural heritage site.

About an hour from Mt Emei lies another UNESCO World Heritage site – the famous Leshan Giant Buddha. This magnificent 71 meters high Maitreya Buddha statute carved out of a cliff showcase the wisdom and perseverance of ancient people’s wisdom. Legend has it that there were frequent incidents of boats capsizing her and thus Monk Haitong decided to commission this remarkable engineering feat to build this Giant Buddha. Miraculously, after the Buddha was built, boats can travel safely along the river. Divine intervention?

Many visitors can choose to walk from the top to the foot via the plant road with nine turns (Jiuqu Zhandao, 九曲栈道) which has 217 stone steps with the narrowest part only 0.6 meter. The park also has a 170 meters long sleeping Buddha statue, the largest and longest sleeping Buddha statue in the world, the Lingyun Temple located next to the Giant Buddha and Wuyou Temple located near the Buddha feet.

Tips:

  • Getting to Leshan and Emeishan from Chengdu is easy via the high-speed train. It takes 1 hour to reach Leshan station and another 20 minutes to reach Emeishan station. You will need to take the taxi (or bus) from the station to the Leshan Big Buddha or Emeishan sites. Note that for Emeishan, the sites are not in the city so ensure that the driver drops you in the mountain area and not the city area.
  • To travel between emeisan and Leshan, there is a long distance bus which costs RMB 11 one way. This is the cheapest way to go to Leshan from emei. Once in Leshan, you can then take the taxi to the Big Buddha site. If you take taxi, one way costs between RMB 120 – 150. You may want to arrange for the taxi to pick you up as it can be challenging to get a taxi along the street.
  • If you want to see the full image of the Buddha, the only way is to take the ferry and view from the river. If you go into the Leshan Buddha site, you will be claiming from the top of the Buddha to the legs but will not get the full view. The climb is rather steep with uneven high steps so it is not suitable for elderly.
  • Mt Emei is divided into various scenic areas. The Baoguo Temple area at the foot of the mountain has one of the oldest temple in Mt Emei. Wannian Temple area and the nearby Qingyin Pavilion midway up the mountain has some of the most scenic sights in Emei for nature lovers. The Golden Summit area is a must-see and if you are lucky, you get to see the famous sea of clouds, Buddha light and Saint Lamps.
  • To get to the Golden summit, you need to take the bus from emei tourist center to Leidongping carpark. From Leidongping carpark, it is around 15-20 minutes walk up flights of stairs to the cable car station. Thereafter, it is a short cable car ride up to the summit station. To get to the Golden summit, it is another 10-15 minutes walk up but this is less tiring than the first leg from Leidongping carpark to the cable car station. You can take the sedan chair too if you cannot walk.
  • Temperature at the Golden summit is typically 15-20 degrees lower than at the foot of the hill so be prepared with warm clothes. You can also rent the warm jacket at Leidongping carpark for RMB 30.

Food:

  • Most of the food can be found around the Baoguo Temple Food Village area. Majority of the eateries serve Sichuan food. If you can’t take spicy food, you can ask for restaurant to recommend less spicy or no spicy food.

Side trips:

– Why not plan a trip to Chongqing? Take a look at my blog here.

– You will likely come to Emeishan or Leshan from Chengdu. Check out what this city has in store for you here.

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Chengdu – The land of the kungfu panda

9 01 2018

What is the first thing that come to your mind when someone mentions China? To me, it is the “real” homeland of Kungfu Panda. Indeed, Sichuan province in China with its bamboo forests is the famously known as the land of the Pandas.

So of course, I can’t miss a visit to the Panda center to see these cute black and white animals. There are a couple of Panda centers, the most convenient one is located in downtown Chengdu. For those traveling to Dujiangyan, the Dujiangyan Panda Base is a good alternative (which is the one that I went). One tip though – the pandas do take afternoon nap so avoid going around noon to early afternoon as they will be sleeping. But it is kind of cute to see them cuddle up and snoring away in their sweet dreams (yes they do snore and pretty loudly lol).

Dujiangyan irrigation system is a must-see if you visit Chengdu. Just around an hour plus drive outside Chengdu, this is one of the UNESCO world heritage site. It is amazing to see how an irrigation system with no dam can be so cleverly built 2,000 years ago and how this still remains in use today.

A short drive from Dujiangyan will bring you to Mt Qingcheng. This mountain is divided into the front side of the mountain and back side of the mountain with the front side famous for the Taoist temples and is the origin site of Taoism, a religion originating from China. The back side of the mountain is famous for its scenic spots and trekking though many drivers are reluctant to drive to the back mountain which is another 2 hours drive from the front mountain.

For those who love Chinese poetry, a visit to the thatched cottage of Du Fu, a famous poet during the Tang Dynasty, is a must see. Du Fu spent three and a half years living in this cottage.

Not far from the cottage is the Jinli Street, which used to one of the busiest commercial streets during the Shu Kingdom some 2000 years ago. The nearby “wide and narrow alley” got its name with its wide alleys and narrow alleys. Now it is lined with many bars. Why not get your ears clean too (if you dare)?

If you have read the famous novel “Three Kingdom”, you will be familiar with Zhu Geliang, the famous wise advisor and Prime Minister to Liu Bei of the Shu Kingdom during the Three Kingdoms period. The Wuhou Temple which is a memorial temple for the famous Zhu Geliang.

Once done with the sightseeing, why not head to Chunxi Road for some shopping? 🙂

Tips:

– It is very cheap and convenient to travel around Chengdu by taxi or the subway. However, most taxi drivers cannot speak English so if you can’t speak mandarin, get your hotel to write instructions for the taxi driver.

– There is free transport between Wuhou Shrine and Dufu Thatched Cottage. You just need to buy the entrance ticket for the other sight and look for the free transport sign at the entrance.

– The taxis boot have limited space due to the gas tank in the book. You can only put one 29 inch luggage, one 25 inch luggage and a backpack. So you may want to pack light if you are travelling with a group of four.

– Pandas usually take a nap in the afternoon so if you want to see them playing, go in the morning or late afternoon.

– There are a lot of ancient towns around Chengdu such as Huanglongxi ancient town, Pingle ancient town and Luodai ancient town so if you are interested, head to one of them.

Trips from Chengdu:

– Leshan Big Buddha and Ermeishan are just a short train ride from Chengdu (via fast train). Please see my link here.

– Many tours of Jiuzhaigou and Huanglong start from Chengdu so you can plan them into your itinerary too. Note that these places have high attitude so you may want to consult your doctor before going.

– Chongqing is just a few hours train ride away from Chengdu. If you are interested to see the Yangtze River or take the cruise, check out my blog here.

Food:

– Sichuan food is well known for its spices (more of “mala” vs hot which makes your taste bud numb). If you cannot take spicy food, ask for mild spice (or no spice). There is one nice (and very cheap) local eatery opposite the Chengdu East Railway station though the waitress may not be able to speak English (the shop name is in the photo below). They do have photos so you can also point to the dish that you like.

– If you visit Dujiangyan and Mt Qingcheng, do try out at the restaurant called 小轩堂(Xiao Xuan Tang).

– You can’t say that you visited Sichuan if you had not taken the mala hotpot. Most hotpot has 2 soups, one spicy and one non-spicy. So for those who can’t take spicy food, you can still join your family/friends in the mala hotpot feast.